When it comes to upgrading a home, it is very important to control air leakage.  The benefits of control are:

• Reduced heating and cooling costs; there is less outside air coming into the home.
• Increased insulation efficiency; the still air in the home keeps insulation in proper working order.
• Controlled humidity and condensation levels.
• Improved home comfort; there are no more drafts or cold spots.

Professional contractors can be hired to assess air barrier system quality in the home or a self-test can be conducted for the same purpose. Just place some lit incense sticks near any possible leakage areas (though not near anything flammable) when it is windy outside and check the direction of the smoke. The smoke might flow towards or away from an area of the house which confirms the presence or absence of an air leakage path.

Make a note of confirmed leak locations and test other suspected areas while paying particular attention to the following:

• Electrical outlets, switches and light fixtures
• Plumbing penetrations and lines
• Floor-to-ceiling connections for every level of the house
• Baseboards, door and crown moldings
• Fireplace damper area
• Chimney exit, either through the wall or attic 
• Attic hatch
• Windows as well as doors (glass must be tightly fitted with good case sealing)
• Appliance ventilation 
• Places that have piping, wiring, vents and plumbing lines; whether in the attic or basement, insulation must be removed for easy access to these.

The Basement

A lot of homeowners don’t realize that unfinished basements can be a big source of heat loss. This could stem from the misconception that heat only rises, with the earth acting as a good insulator. That is wrong: hot air rises but heat can flow in any direction, especially from an area that is warmer to an area that is colder. 

Moreover, basements in older homes often have a lot of uninsulated walls and floors which become heat sinks as warm air is drawn to their cooler surfaces.  A lot of heat is lost through wall crevices, windows and the foundation wall top, between the basement ceiling and the first floor. A basement that is not insulated causes as much as 35% of the total heat loss in any home.

You can’t just put in insulation or air barriers in your damp, leaky basement without identifying and correcting any underlying problems first. Areas that tend to accumulate water, whether during springtime or after heavy rain, need to be repaired. Wet insulation does not offer any energy-efficiency value, but encourages mold and other air quality issues. The basement should be thoroughly checked for dampness, puddles, and water leaks when it is raining. Look out for enlarging or big cracks in the foundation walls. Install a sump pit and pump in areas where water accumulates.

You can ease certain wet basement problems by sloping the land away from the exterior of the foundation wall. Alternatively, you can add rain gutters to the attic or roof spaces. If these simple measures do not suffice, you may need to put in supplementary drainage around your house. Damp-proofing